04 July 2010

millipedes and centipedes


Recently several people asked me what these worm like black creatures were that invade our gardens and terraces in spring and early summer. They are in fact Millipedes. Before coming to the south of France I had only come across the type of Millipedes we normally find in northern Europe:



but in this area the smooth, worm like looking millipede is far more common:


The RHS plant problem section mentions the following:

Quote: "Plants affected - seedlings and other soft growth, strawberry fruits and potato tubers.
Symptoms - seedlings and soft growth are eaten; slug damage on bulbs and potato tubers is enlarged. Damage is rarely serious.

Control - cultivate the soil thoroughly and maintain good hygiene. Use inorganic rather than organic fertilizers in areas where millepedes are a problem, especially where potatoes are being grown. Millipedes, once present, are difficult to control, but HCH dust or methiocarb slug pellets may occasionally have some effect." Unquote

Centipedes are creatures we should encourage in our garden. Geoff Hamilton in his book "Successful Organic Gardening" wrote the following:

Quote: "Centipedes are a fast-moving natural predator of many small insects and slugs. They are light brown with longer legs than millipedes. Like the black beetle, centipedes need ground cover to hide under during the day. At night they will emerge in search of prey, even climbing the plants to reach it."


01 July 2010

Conseils jardin

CONSEILS JARDIN – JUILLET et AOUT 2010

Le printemps nous a apporté de bonnes pluies et nous débutons juillet avec des orages qui apportent quelques millimètres d’eau bien utiles pour le jardin quand ces pluies ne sont pas trop fortes ou avec de la grêle. L’arrosage restera malgré tout une gestion de tous les jours pour beaucoup de nos plantes.

L’arrosage automatique, goutte à goutte, doit être bien réglé selon les besoins des plantes. Il est plus souvent bénéfique d’arroser 1 fois par semaine en quantité que tous les jours et surtout pas 3 fois par jour. Même les plantes sur balcon ne devront pas subir des arrosages quotidiens à l’exception des « buveuses » d’eau, en plein soleil, comme les Surfinias.

Pailler sur 10 cm les légumes et vos massifs, tous débris végétaux peuvent être utilisés, même les tontes de gazon.

La Tomate : reine de nos plats provençaux, elle est à surveiller par rapport au mildiou, aux attaques d’araignées rouges mais aussi de la maladie « du cul noir. Cette dernière est la conséquence d'un déséquilibre d’arrosage ( trop ou pas assez). Préférez le paillage à trop d’arrosage et je vous conseille de ne pas trop tailler vos tomates ;laissez plus de pousses ce qui donnera plus de fruits mais plus petits ! Cette technique vous laissera des pieds de tomates plus résistants aux maladies. Autre astuce : un fil de cuivre planté au pied des tomates !

Les rosiers : si des feuilles ont jauni avec des taches noires, n’hésitez pas à les enlever manuellement sur la plante et ramassez celles tombées au sol. Avec un apport d’engrais organique au pied et une taille des pousses défleuries, vous aurez une nouvelle floraison dans l’été pour les rosiers remontants. Mais avec des températures au dessus de 25°c, les rosiers refleurissent peu et attendent septembre.

Vos plantes d’intérieur peuvent être mises dehors, sous des arbres, avec des arrosages réguliers. Bassinez aussi le feuillage le soir avec une eau non calcaire. Et groupez les pots car la transpiration par les feuilles donnera une ambiance plus fraiche pour vos plantes qui auront donc moins besoin d’eau !

Au verger : après la cueillette des abricots mais aussi des pêches, vous pouvez faire une taille «en vert », c'est-à-dire tailler les pousses de l’intérieur de l’arbre et réduire les pousses extérieures pour maintenir l’ampleur de l’arbre.

Bon jardinage à tous……

Jean-Yves MEIGNEN
Jardinier de l'Abbaye de Valsaintes et de France bleu Vaucluse
Consultant à domicile

08 June 2010

How to propagate by taking cuttings from shrubs and herbaceous plants


Shrubs:

From June to July is the time to take cuttings from decidious shrubs.

For evergreen shrubs it is from August to September.

How to proceed:

Cut off a strong, non flowering shoot of this year's growth, about 15 cm in length.

Cut off the end of the shoot to just 5mm under a leaf. Remove all the leaves on the shoot, except for two to three terminal leaves. If the terminal leaves are too big, reduce the surface area by half.



Choose a pot of 8/10 cm in diameter. Fill it with a mixture of sand and peat. Make a hole with a stick and slide in the cutting right up to the lowest leaf. Firm in the soil around the cutting, moisten it by using a sprayer.




Cut off the bottom of a plastic bottle, place over the pot. Make sure you lift of the plastic bottle once a day to bring in some fresh air, till the arrival of new leaves. Keep watering to a minimum. The pots should be kept in a sheltered, frost free environment. After 1 to 2 years the shrub is ready to be planted out.




Herbaceous plants:

Towards the end of August, cut off a principal or lateral shoot, 6 to 10 cm in length. The shoot should still be soft and green. It is preferable to take shoots that have not flowered or are in bud, if you cannot find a shoot without flowers or buds, remove all flowers and buds as you prepare the cutting.

Cut off the end of the shoot to 3 mm under a pair of leaves. Dip the shoot in hormone powder, flick off the excess.



Fill a small pot with a mixture of sand and peat. Make a hole with a stick and slide in the cutting up to the bottom leaves. Firm in the soil gently around the cutting.

Make sure the cuttings are well watered. Cover them. They should be kept out of direct sunlight. In autumn when they've formed roots, repot them in a mixture of 2/3 compost and 1/3 garden earth.



Overwinter them in a frost free environment. In spring they are ready to be planted out.




26 May 2010

Garden visit 25 May 2010 to La Valette & La Garde





Our first visit of the day was to Domaine d'Orvès in La Valette. The house was built in 1695 and was in fact a farmhouse when the Pierre & Henriette Duval, the parents of the present owner "Françoise Darlington", bought it in 1925. They restored and improved it to become a more substantial property. During World War II the Nazi's occupied the house and felled all the trees, just the Plane trees near the entrance of the house were saved. In total they cut down 1200 trees. After the war the Duvals' started from scratch, planting trees and shrubs, restoring the house to it's former glory. Their daughter inherited the property in 1993 and has continued in their foot steps.

The first part of our visit was to a water lily pond.

Quite lovely.

We continued our visit to the formal part of the garden.



An arched walkway made by pleached fig trees, gave some welcome shade.

On either side of the arched walkway, masses of irises bordered the path, behind the irises, shrubs (most with grey tinted leaves) were planted to complete the border.

Françoise Darlington had some urgent matters to see to, so her daughter-in-law took over and took us on a walk up the restanques and grounds above the house.

On each level there were interesting plants to admire. I've tried to name as many as I could remember and find. To discover new varieties of plants, shrubs or trees makes these garden visits so enjoyable:

Abutilon megapotanicum (You might remember it from Nathalie Rigg's garden).
Acacia alata
Acacia karroo - a Mimosa with very sharp long thorns.

Acanthus mollis.
Acanthus spinosa.
Actinidia 'deliciosa' - Kiwi fruit.

Anchusa azurea - bright blue flowers growing near to the "La Mortola" rose.
Arbutus glandulosa - the interesting part of this tree is its bark, cinnemon coloured, peeling in the summer to a pistachio green colour.

Arbutus menziesii - similar to the A. glandulosa except that the bark does not turn green.
Arundo Donax - Giant Reed.
Buddleja officinalis - A winter flowering/early spring flowering Buddleja.
Bulbinella hookeri - Lovely orange/yellow flowering bulb.
Callistemon citrinus - Bottlebrush.
Callistemon "Mauve Mist"- pink flowering Bottlebrush.
Cerotostigma - It was not yet in flower, but planted on the formal area of the garden, mixed with poppies and other wild flowers.
Cistus x purpureus.
Convolvulus mauritanicum.
Cyperus papyrus - Papyrus.
Duranta repens - Golden dewdrop/Sky flower, with pendant blue flowers, yellow berries follow.
Echium candicans - family of Echium vulgare (Viper's Bugloss) but much taller and fuller.
Eleagnus angustifolia 'Quicksilver'.
Equisetum arvensis (Horsetail) - awful weed to get rid off, once you have it in your garden but quite a useful herb, a poultice can be applied externally to aid the healing of wounds, sores and ulcers; the tisane is effective as a mouthwash in aphthous ulcers or gingivitis, and can be used as a douche in leucorrhoea or menorrhagia. It was growing at the edge of the pond.
Erigeron karvinskianus 'Profusion', whole beds on the restanque was filled with the small daisy like flowers.
Eriobotrya japonica - Loquat.
Eucalyptus citriodora - essential oil is made out of the leaves. A curious thing is when you touch the trunk of the tree it is cold to the touch.
Grevillea robusta - Silky Oak, upright/conical tree with yellow/orange Bottlebrush like flowers.
Helleboris argutifolius/corsicus - Corsican Hellebore.

Hylocereus undatus - fast growing, epiphytic or climbing cactus - Hanna
Hymenosporum flavum - Australian frangipani tree, very fragrant yellow flowers, related to the Pittosporum.

Iris pseudacorus - Yellow Iris on edge of the pond.
Iris "Shelford Giant" - Very tall white Iris growing along the path not far from Rosa "La Mortola".
Lychnis coronaria - Rose Campion.
Magnolia delavayi - an evergreen Magnolia, flowering in the summer.
Melaleuca densa - related to the Bottlebrush
Melia azedarach (Indian Bead Tree) - very large specimen in flower.

Meliathus major.

Pelargonium - many different varieties, growing in the dappled shade.
Ptilostemon gnaphaloides.

Rosa La Mortola - fantastic single white climbing rose, growing over one of the buildings.



Salvia mellifera.
Sollya heterophylla - Bluebell creeper, lovely small blue bell flowers, near the swimming pool.

Tetrapanax papyriferus - Rice Paper Plant.

Zantedeschia aethiopica "Green Goddess", looks like an Arum.


After our visit we had our usual picnic lunch just in front of the house on the terrace shaded by the plane trees. The setting was lovely.



The afternoon visit was to the Succulent Garden of Mr. & Mrs. Navarro in La Garde. This garden is so amazing, I can recommend anyone reading this article to visit it.

The Navarro's started the garden in 1971 and since then they've built up collections of Aeonium, Agave, Aloe, other Succulents and Cacti, too many to mention in this blog. They have 5 greenhouses were the more tropical Cacti and Succulents are stored, the winter they store 1800 pots in the various greenhouses, during the summer these pots are outside.

This garden is a living museum for Cacti & Succulents. In the summer they start watering at 05.00 hrs to finish watering at 10.00 hrs. They're both devoted to their plants and it shows.

Beside the Cacti & Succulents they've introduced several interesting shrubs and trees into the garden.

The amount of plants in the garden is so immense that it is impossible to mention them all:

Aloe Vera - with the yellow spike and Aloe ferox - with the orange spike.


Dichondra - Dichondra seed alternative lawn, seed available from seedland.com - Hanna









Ferula communis - Giant Fennel.

Hoodia juttea - flowers have a very unpleasant smell.

Lagunaria pattersonii - Cow Itch Tree.
Lonicera x brownii "Dropmne Scarlet" - Red Honeysuckle

Otata acuminata artecorum - Mexican Weeping Bamboo.

Phytolacca dioica - Their tree is not so large yet!

Podophyllum 'Kaleidoscope'.


Senna artemisioides.

Teucrium subspinosum.

Thespesia peruvia - yellow Hisbiscus like flowers.

We finished the visit with a very welcoming cold drink on their terrace.



Bibliography: RHS A-Z Book, Elisabeth Boutevin: Photographs

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