Seasonal Pruning
When should a particular shrub, rose, climber, ornamental tree or fruit tree be pruned? Below are lists of the most common plants divided into 4 seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter, then into categories. Each season has info on shrubs, roses, climbers, trees and fruit trees, all in alphabetical order.
For instance if you want to prune a modern climbing rose, quickly scan through the seasons, you'll find it under 'roses' in autumn.
Early
Spring – Late Spring
Shrubs:
Abelia – remove dead and damaged growth.
Abutilon megapotamicum, free standing shrubs shorten previous
season’s growth by 1/3, wall-trained Abutilon, occasionally remove old wood in
favour of strong young replacement shoots. (Abutilon “Kentish Belle” is pruned
similarly)
Aloysia triphylla (Lemon Verbena) – prune mid spring after any
danger of frost has passed to a woody framework , shorten growth to buds 5-10
cm from the old wood.
Artemisia spp. – cut back annually when main frost is over to
a low framework of main stems.
Bougainvillea spp. – prune back frost damage if grown as hedge to
keep in form.
Buddleja davidii – prune back to framework in early spring.
Buddleja madagascariensis – from early to mid-spring, cut back shoots
that have flowered to a bud or vigorous young shoot.
Bupleurum – has no special needs, but tolerates pruning and makes a good informal
hedge, trim in late spring. Mature
specimens can be cut back hard if they become too dense and twiggy.
Camellia
japonica – only to tidy
up, after flowering in spring, before buds brake.
Carpenteria californica – prune after flowering, remove 1 in 3
branches from the base.
Caryopteris – prune in mid - to late spring back
to a framework, cutting to within 2.5cm of the older wood in mid to late
spring, as the buds are breaking (when dead wood is more obvious), and when
severe frosts are no longer expected.
Cassia corymbosa – cut shrub back to 30cm.
Ceanothus “Gloire de Versailles” – early to mid spring to a framework.
Ceratostigma plumbagnoides – prune back to ground level in early spring.
Choisya ternate – cut back flowered stems by 25-30cm.
Cistus – prune shrub after flowering to a neat shape.
Convolvulus cneorum – prune in early spring, before buds break.
Cornus alba – in early spring, prune back to framework.
Coronilla valentina - cut
back after flowering.
Cotinus coggygria – keep pruning to minimum, only diseased, dead
or damaged wood or wayward branches.
Cotoneaster – evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub or small tree; prune in winter or
mid-spring. For a multi-stemmed shrub,
develop a framework of 4 to 7 main branches, removing laterals crossing the
centre of the shrub to reduce congestion.
Thereafter keep pruning to a minimum.
Daphne spp. – best left unpruned apart from dieback. Daphne does not respond well to pruning.
Euonymus japonicus - tip prune mid to late spring.
Exochorda – Prune out 1 in 3 old stems in late spring after flowering.
Fatsia – prune mid spring, normally needs little pruning, remove unwanted
branches completely.
Forsythia – after flowering thin out crowded shoots from the centre of the shrub,
cutting back a proportion of the oldest flowered wood to vigorous shoots.
Fuchsia magellanica – early spring, once growth commences, cut
back to lowest bud.
Hebe cupressoides – prune in spring, trim back lightly into neat
compact shape each year.
Hebe pinguifolia – mid to late spring cut out growth that has
been damaged during the winter and any stems that have died back.
Hebe speciosa – trim lightly in mid to late spring as plant begins to make active
growth. The same for Hebe ‘Great Orme’.
Helichrysum italicum – in spring cut back leggy shoots to old wood.
Helichrysum petiolare – pinch back long growths in spring to
encourage bushiness throughout the growing season.
Heteromeles – thin twiggy growth lightly and, if necessary to shape or restrict
size, cut branches back to suitably placed laterals.
Hibiscus rosa sinensis – prune in March by 1/3, leave 2 buds at the
base of each branch.
Hibiscus syriacus – prune in late spring, on established plants
pruning is best kept to a minimum, though any shoots that show sign of dieback
should be cut back to live wood.
Hydrangea macrophylla - prune in mid-spring, cut back weak, thin
shoots and one or two of the oldest stems to the base of the plant. Prune the previous year’s flowered branches
by up to 30cm.
Hydrangea paniculata – in early spring, before plants start into
active growth prune back annually to a woody framework.
Hypericum calycinum – in early spring cut back all previous year’s
growth.
Hypericum forrestii – in spring remove any old, weak or thin
growth, then shorten the remaining stems back to the base or to strong shoots
to keep growth compact. Most other Hypericums are treated like H. forrestii.
Indigofera – prune early to mid spring, remove all weak shoots and cut back all
others to just above ground level.
Iochroma spp. – cut shrub back by ½ in March.
Jasminum officinalis “Grandiflorum” – early spring by ¼ - 1/3 of
the branches, every 4-5 years cut back severely by ¾.
Kerria – prune in late spring after flowering , cut the stem back to different
heights. If plants are spreading too
widely, chop peripheral canes out with a spade.
Lavandula stoechas +Lavandula dentata – prune by ± 10cm after flowering.
Laurus nobilis (Bayleaf) – Lightly prune between March - September to
keep in form.
Lavatera – prune in spring, when the buds begin to break, and after last severe
frosts. Cut out weak growths and prune
all other stems to within 30cm. In
exposed positions, shorten stems in autumn.
Leptospermun scoparium – Prune frost damage, prune lightly after
flowering.
Lespedeza – cut down old stems when danger of frost has passed.
Lonicera fragrantissima – in late spring cut old and weak stems back
to the base of the plant to encourage growth low down that will keep the base
well furnished. Shorten up to one in
three of the other branches, cutting them back to just above fresh, upright
shoots.
Mahonia aquifolium – prune in spring after flowering. Remove unwanted suckers. Shear ground cover plants to just above ground
level annually or every 2 years , to keep them thick. Taller growing specimens need little pruning.
Mahonia x media – in spring after flowering. No regular pruning is required but long or
old stems that are bare at the base can be cut back to strong growth lower
down.
Myrtis communis (Myrtle) – prune lightly to maintain shape in
late spring.
Nandina – pruning is only needed to keep the plant tidy.
Nerium oleander (Oleander) – after
frost has passed, aerate centre, cut back branches by 1/3.
Osmanthus delavayi – prune in late spring, after flowering. Hedges may be clipped over several times
during summer, but in cool climates do not trim them any later than midsummer,
or the resulting fresh growth may be vulnerable to frost damage in winter.
Penstemon – prune in spring after any danger of severe frost has passed. Prune any winter-damaged stems back hard to
encourage fresh growth from the base.
Perovskia – prune in mid-spring, as new growth is breaking. Prune each year back to a framework of old
wood that will gradually develop.
Phlomis – prune in mid-spring when the shrub is in active growth. Established plants need no annual pruning,
but benefit from occasional shaping cuts.
Shorten any frost-damaged stems, cutting to just above healthy
buds. Cut out any weak and old shoots
entirely.
Phormium – in late spring prune the dead or damaged leaves.
Photinia x fraseri – prune in spring, to encourage more bright
young leaves, when established, shorten stems by up to 15cm, cutting just above
an outward facing bud. Clip hedges two
or three times a year.
Phygelius – prune in spring, after the danger of frost has passed. Cut back all frosted stems to healthy buds on
live growth, or to the base of the plant.
Pittosporum spp. – prune in mid-spring to keep in form when
growth has started. Trim hedges again in
midsummer.
Potentilla – prune in mid-spring, shorten vigorous young shoots by up to half. To tidy plants, trim over lightly after
flowering.
Pyracantha – prune in mid-spring, specimen shrubs need little training once
established. On wall-trained specimens,
cut back outward-growing shoots and shorten other shoots in spring. Hedges can be pruned in spring.
Rhus typhina (Staghorn sumach) – prune in early spring, remove unwanted
suckers as they appear. Cut back plants
grown for foliage effect either to about 10cm from the ground or to a low
framework of woody stems each year.
Rosmarinus (Rosemary) - formal hedges should be trimmed twice in the season, in
late spring and late summer.
Salvia spp (Sage) - With garden salvias, pruning is the key to
maintaining their vigour and promoting an attractive, compact habit. Unless you’re collecting seed, remove spent
flower spikes from herbaceous varieties to stimulate a second and even third
flush of blooms. When pruning
woody-stemmed varieties, there is just one thing to remember, cut plants back
very hard, but never prune to bare wood. Many growers recommend that you
wait until you see new shoots emerging from near the base of the plant before
you cut. Hold back even longer in frost
prone areas - the old stems will protect the fresh growth. Pruning is generally
done after flowering, but this can be difficult when some varieties flower
almost continuously! In this case, watch
for that new growth, and prune then.
Santolina – in
early spring, every two to three years, as plants become more open and
straggly, cut hard back into old wood.
Solanum
spp. – prune beginning
of spring, aerate the centre, reduce branches by ½.
Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom) – in early spring, in the
first two years, cut back the main stems by half to promote a dense habit. Subsequently every two or three years reduce
the previous season’s growth to within 2.5 cm of the old wood.
Spirea douglash – prune in early spring, shorten 1 in 3 or 4
of the remaining stems to within 2 to 4 buds of the previous year’s growth;
remove some stems entirely to maintain an open habit.
Spirea japonica – prune in early spring, cut out all weak and
old wood, prune back remaining stems to leave a framework 10-15 cm high, and
prune to 1 or 2 buds of this every year.
Tamarix (Tamarisk) – prune late summer flowering tamarisk in
spring. In the first two years cut back
stems by 1/2, prune established plants annually, cutting back flowered stems to
strong sideshoots.
Ulex europaeus (Gorse) – in late spring after flowering clip
over lightly after flowering to keep growth compact. Shorten wayward stems, if necessary.
Viburnum x bodnantense – prune in early spring after flowering. On
established bushes, cut out up to 1 in 5 branches to the base, removing the
oldest and the weakest. Leave the
remainder unpruned.
Vitex spp – in spring, prune flowered shoots back to spurs or young shoots on the
main stems and remove 1 in 2 old stems completely.
Roses
- Modern Bush Roses:
Large flowered bush roses (Hybrid Teas)
– prune in early spring:
- Remove any
shoots that are dead, diseased or damaged, and cut back to healthy wood. Position cuts to encourage outward growth
that will not cross the centre or other stems.
- Shorten
the remaining stems to 20-22cm above ground level, making an angled cut to 5mm
(1/2 inch) of an outward facing bud.
Cluster flowered bushroses (Floribundas)
– prune in early spring:
- Remove any
shoots that are dead, diseased or damaged, and cut back to healthy wood. Position cuts to encourage outward growth
that will not cross the centre or other stems.
- Shorten
stems to 25-30cm above ground level.
Shorten any laterals back to 2 or 3 buds from the main stem cutting to
an outward facing bud.
Patio and Polyanthas – prune early spring:
- They are pruned the same way as cluster
flowered bushroses.
Miniature roses – prune early spring:
- Remove any
shoots that are dead, diseased or damaged.
Relieve congestion by cutting out the oldest stems entirely.
- Tip prune
main stems to remove any leftover flowers.
- Prune any
laterals back to within 1 or 2 buds of the main stem.
Roses – Modern Shrub Roses:
Hybrid Musks and Rugosas – prune in early spring:
- When
growth becomes crowded, remove 1 or 2 old unproductive stems at the base.
- To
maintain a compact habit and encourage flowering, tip prune a proportion of
sideshoots at the periphery of the plant.
- Remove any
dead, diseased or damaged growth, cutting to a healthy bud.
Ground cover roses (Modern Shrub Type) – prune in early spring:
- Cut out any dead,
diseased or damaged growth, cutting to a healthy bud.
- Tip prune main stems – or shorten them if
they extend over their intended boundary.
Ground cover roses (Creeping rambler type) – lightly prune in
early spring.
Roses – Shrub Roses:
Gallicas – in spring take out all dead,
diseased or damaged wood.
Roses – Standards:
Large flowered bush roses (Hybrid Teas) in spring:
- Create a balanced
open head to encourage vigorous new flowering growth.
- Remove dead, diseased and damaged
growth.
- After pruning main stems have
been cut back to about 20cm from the graft union and side shoots to 2 or 3 buds.
Weeping standards:
- Are best left unpruned on planting for their first couple of years to develop
their form.
- Prune only to remove dead,
damaged or diseased wood or to shorten weak spindly shoots to a strong bud
encouraging fresh vigorous shoots.
Once established prune
according to rose type (rambler in autumn, climber in winter or ground cover
rose (spring). Weeping standards come in
different type of roses. Only ramblers
with their long flexible shoots will weep naturally.
Climbers:
Akebia quinata (Chocolate Vine):
Prune in late spring, after
flowering, cut young plants back to strong buds about 30-40cm above ground
level to encourage basal growth. Select
five to seven strong shoots, tying in as growth proceeds. In the second season, cut back strong
laterals by 2/3 of their length, and weaker shoots to 1 or 2 buds. Once established, to keep within bounds,
shorten laterals by 1/3 to ½ of its length, cutting back to a healthy bud.
Bignonia capreolata (Trumpet flower):
After planting select 2 to
3 strong shoots as the main framework stems and tie in. In subsequent springs, before growth begins,
shorten the previous season’s lateral by up to 2/3, cutting to a strong, well
placed shoot.
Bougainvillea:
Prune early spring just before growth starts, prune back new plants
hard to stimulate strong growth from the base, then tie in shoots as growth
proceeds. Tie in only the strongest
shoots, removing others. In subsequent
years, reduce leading shoots by 2/3 to ¾ of the previous season’s growth,
cutting back to a strong bud. Cut back
laterals and sideshoots that are not needed to tie in to extend the framework
to within 2 or 3 buds of the main stems; the shoots that develop will bear the
current year’s flowers.
Campsis:
Prune in early spring. After
planting, prune all stems back hard to about 15cm. Select 2 or 3 of the strongest shoots and
remove the rest. Tie in as growth proceeds,
until shoots extend fully over the allotted space. Once established prune the plant annually,
prune all lateral shoots back to within 2 or 3 buds of the main stems.
Clematis Nelly Moser (Group 2):
Prune early spring before new
growth begins. These large-flowered,
decidious hybrids have two flushes of flowers, first in early summer on the
previous year’s wood, then in late summer on new shoots. With careful pruning, the two can virtually
overlap, providing a long, uninterrupted flowering season. Leaving an evenly spaced framework of strong
growth, cut back all other stems to a pair of healthy buds. These should produce flowering shoots.
Staggering the pruning, cutting back some shoots to healthy buds later than
others, prolongs flowering still further.
Clematis viticella (Group 3):
Prune back in early spring, when
buds show signs of growth. Cut back to
strong pairs of buds about 15-30cm above ground level. If any main stems have been killed by frost,
cut them right out; new ones will usually develop from ground level.
Ipomoea (Morning Glory):
Old and congested wood should be cut out in early
spring, retain as much upper growth as possible. Old plants tolerate hard pruning; cut back
hard in early spring to leave only the framework branches. The more vigorous species can be trimmed back
with shears during the growing season.
Jasminum nudiflorum:
Prune in spring immediately after
flowering. Create a framework of
branches, cut back flowered shoots to within 2 or 3 pairs of buds of the main
branch, leaving the framework intact.
Lonicera japonica:
Prune in early spring. After planting cut young plants back up to
2/3 to encourage strong basal shoots.
Select the best to form the framework.
Tip back shoots when they have reached their required height, thin out
congested growth and cut back over-long shoots to suitable buds.
Passiflora:
Prune in spring. All training
methods should aim to develop a permanent framework to which flowered shoots
can be pruned back. To fan-train on a
wall, remove growing tips after planting to encourage branching from the
base. Select three to five of the
strongest resulting shoots and tie them in to develop a framework. If training up and along high wires, train
the single stem vertically, pinching back sideshoots until the plant reaches
the height where laterals can be allowed to develop and be trained horizontally
to form permanent main stems along the wires.
Once established, prune in spring to remove dead, weak and overcrowded
growth, and shorten shoots to keep within bounds. After flowering, cut back flowered shoots to
within two or three buds of the framework branches.
Solanum
(Solanum jasminoides/Solanum crispum):
Prune in early spring. After
planting remove the growing tips to encourage branching from the base, and
select three or four strong shoots to form a framework. Once established, prune annually to remove
unwanted growth, and cut back lateral shoots to within two or three buds of the
main framework.
Trees:
Acacia spp (Mimosa)– prune after flowering.
Remove faded flowers, normally
they are pruned to a rounded or vase shape.
Albizia
- Just frost damage, A.
julibrissin tolerates pruning to restrict size.
Arbutus - Minimal pruning , just trunk clearance of branches.
Catalpa bignonioides - prune
out frost damaged growth in spring.
Celtis australis (Australian nettle tree/Micocoulier) – remove
dead wood and frost-damaged growth in late spring.
Magnolia grandiflora – prune in spring as growths begins. In areas with long hot summers and mild
winters, it forms a strong central leader and needs little pruning other than
to shorten lanky young branches.
Fruit Trees:
Ficus carica (Fig) – prune when sap is rising:
There are 2 type of
Fig Trees, one type of Fig tree fruits twice a year, the other type fruits once
a year. Before pruning you need to know
what type you have.
2 x a year fruiting
Fig – prune the branches by 2/3 on ½ of
the tree.
1 x a year fruiting
Fig (fruits in autumn) – prune by 1/3 to
2/3 of all branches.
Citrus – spring pruning gives re-growth time to ripen before the cold weather
sets in. In general prune mature trees
as lightly as possible. An exception can
be made for some cultivars of lemon grown on a vigorous rootstock. On grafted citrus, suckers are likely to
arise from below the bud union. Inward-growing
shoots should also be removed or cut back to an outward-facing bud since,
shaded by other growth, they are unlikely to produce flowers. As with al fruit trees, diseased or dead
branches should be regularly removed, and any crossing branches that could
cause chafing damage.
Olea europaea (Olive) – prune in spring when severe frost is over. Remove crossing branches and old and
unproductive wood in order to stimulate new shoots that will flower the
following year, and thin overcrowded
growth in the centre of the crown to let in sun.
Early
to Late Summer
Shrubs:
Acca sellowiana (Feijoa) – no special needs; if necessary, prune
ornamental Acca’s after flowering and fruiting Acca’s in winter.
Abelia – prune after flowering, remove some old wood, cutting back 1 in 4
flowered stems to strong new shoots or to the ground.
Callistemon citrinus - prune back by 1/3 after flowering in early
summer.
Ceanothus arboreus (evergreen variety) – prune after flowering,
cut back longer flowered shoots by 1/3 to ½.
Ceasalpina gilliessi – After flowering cut back all branches by ½.
Chaenomeles – in early summer cut back all sideshoots to two or three leaves to
improve flowering in late spring.
Cornus mas – lightly prune in early summer.
Deutzia – Prune back after flowering to young shoots below the flowered wood.
Cut out old branches to ground level, or to strong low shoots.
Cytisus battandieri – prune in summer after flowering. Requires little pruning, but old wood can be
cut out.
Elaeagnus angustifolia – prune in midsummer after flowering. Allow to develop naturally as a multi-stemmed
bush.
Elaeagnus
x ebbingei – prune in
late summer. Free standing specimens
require only minimal pruning. To keep
hedges in check, cut long shoots back to a bud with secateurs.
Escallonia – prune after flowering by cutting out a proportion of the flowered
wood.
Euphorbia characias – midsummer after flowering, prune back
flowered stem to a strong shoot.
Fremontodendron – after flowering in midsummer, needs minimal
pruning.
Genista (Broom) – trim after flowering to keep plants bushy and compact.
Grevillea – prune the branches in summer after flowering by ¾.
Hebe pinguifolia – Annual pruning is done in spring but in
summer use shears to clip over plant to remove dead flowers.
Helianthemum (Rock Rose) – prune lightly mid to late summer.
Ilex – prune in late summer, when the new growth is ripe but not woody.
Kalmia – requires very little pruning, just deadheading where this is
practicable.
Kolkwitzia – prune in midsummer after flowering, prune back 1 in 3 or 4 stems,
always removing the oldest, either cutting to a low sideshoot or to the base.
Lavandula angustifolia (Lavande) & Lavandula x intermedia (Lavandin) – after flowering to form a need
rounded bush, don’t prune below new growth.
Lonicera tatarica – in midsummer after flowering, cut old and
weak stems back to the base of the plant to encourage growth low down that will
keep the base well furnished. Shorten up
to one in three of the other branches, cutting them back to just above fresh,
upright shoots.
Paeonia – prune in summer after flowering.
Plant need little formative pruning.
Remove dead flowers in summer.
Occasionally cut old leggy stems of mature plants back to ground level.
Penstemon – After flowering shorten flowered stems by half to prevent seed
production and encourage further flowering.
Cut any stems showing dieback right back to base.
Philadelphus spp – Prune in summer after flowering. Cut back 1 in 4 stems, choosding the oldest,
to ground level or to a low shoot.
Pyracantha – in summer for wall-trained specimens cut back young shoots not needed
for tying in to 2 or 3 leaves, to expose the next crop of ripening
berries. Prune hedges for the 2nd
time in summer.
Rosmarinus (Rosemary) – prune in early summer, after flowering. Established plants needs little pruning
except to cut lanky growth back to a main branch or shoot. Formal hedges should be trimmed twice in the
season, in late spring and late summer.
Rhamnus alaternus – needs very little pruning. Just damaged wood.
Santolina – trim off faded flowers and long shoots annually in autumn.
Spirea arguta (Bridal Wreath) – prune in early summer, thin growth by cutting back to
ground level 1 in 4 of the oldest stems.
Remove any weak growth, and shorten the flowered stems by up to 1/2,
cutting back to strong shoots.
Syringa meyeri – prune midsummer after flowering, bushes are
naturally twiggy, and require minimal pruning.
Syringa
vulgaris – prune in
midsummer, deadhead carefully, where practical, with secateurs to avoid
damaging the young shoots which will flower every year. Remove suckers. They need minimal attention until stems
become old and lanky, when they respond well to renovation. It is preferable to stagger hard pruning over
two to three year. Cut back main stems
to 30-60 cm from the ground.
Tamarix (Tamarisk) – prune early
flowering tamarisk in summer. In the
first two years cut back stems by 1/2, prune established plants annually,
cutting back flowered stems to strong sideshoots.
Teucrium fruticans – prune early summer after flowering. They can be pruned very hard back or to a
framework or to whatever height you require, if you leave them unpruned they
become rather straggly.
Thymus – prune after flowering, only prune to where you can see new shoots.
Fresh growth will not break from old wood.
Viburnum tinus – prune after flowering, keep pruning to a
minimum, but remove any over-vigorous shoots that spoil the shape, cutting them
back to well with within the plant’s outline to hide where the cuts have been
made.
Weigela florida – prune in midsummer, after flowering. When established, each year cut back flowered
stems to strong, usually upright, shoots below the faded flowers. Cut out at the base 1 in 2 old stems, aiming
to maintain a balance between mature and young wood, and remove or shorten
overlong new growth that spoils the plant’s shape.
Roses – Shrub Roses:
Albas, Damasks, Mosses and Provences:
- Cut back
old main stems by about 1/3.
- Reduce
laterals by about 1/3 t a strong, healthy, outward facing shoot or bud.
Gallicas:
- After mid-summer, when flowering is finished, prune back laterals to a
main stem or to a shoot close to the main stem.
-
Every 1 to 3 years, depending on vigour take out at or near ground level
1 or 2 old main stems.
Ground cover roses (not
Modern Shrub Type) prune in summer after flowering:
- Cut out any dead,
diseased or damaged growth, cutting to a healthy bud.
- Tip prune main stems – or shorten them if
they extend over their intended boundary.
Roses – Ramblers:
Prune in summer once
single flush is over. Stems should be
trained horizontally. They flower on
wood produced the previous year. Ramblers make much more new growth from the
base of the plant than climbers and this should be encouraged by cutting out 1
in 3 main stems to the base. Remove the
oldest stems, cutting them in several places and teasing small sections
out. Feed well in spring.
- Prune
ramblers on planting to stimulate growth from the base. Remove all dead, damaged and weak twiggy
growth, cut main stem back to 40cm from the ground.
- Fan out
the shoots and tie the stems in near to horizontal as they grow to cover the
allotted space evenly.
- Once the
allotted area is covered, thin and shorten excess growth after the flowering.
Roses – Weeping Rambler:
- Cut the
oldest flowered stem back to just above the graft union.
- Prune
other flowered stems to an outward growing replacement shoot.
- Prune any
side shoots to 3 or 4 buds.
- Tip prune
stems that touch the ground.
- Throughout
the growing season remove as seen any suckers on the rose’s stem by pinching
them out.
Climbers:
Clematis Montana (group 1), prune immediately after flowering
. Keep pruning of established plants to
a minimum, cut back overlong shoots to healthy buds.
Hardenbergia comptoniana – prune after flowering. Established plants need little pruning other
than to remove overcrowded, weak, dead or damaged growth. They do not respond well to hard pruning.
Hydrangea – prune after flowering. Pruning
established plants is best kept to a minimum, but as plants fill their space,
shorten overlong shoots and outward growing laterals by cutting them back to a
healthy bud.
Macfadyena (Cat’s Claw Creeper) – prune immediately after flowering to thin out
congested growth and remove weak and damaged shoots.
Wisteria – prune in mid-winter, and again in summer, about two months after
flowering.
There are 2 ways of
training Wisteria over a pillar. If you
wish the plants to flower on the pillars as well as over the top, then spiral
the stems. If you want the canopy
covered quickly then train them straight up.
Once the stems have reached the tops of the posts, spread them evenly
over the crossbeams, tying them into position.
The aim of pruning a Wisteria is to control extensive growth
and to encourage the production of lateral flowering spurs. The currant season’s shoots are cut back in
two stages to within two or three buds of their base. These will bear the coming season’s
flowers. Growth and flower buds are
easily distinguished in late winter, the former being narrow and pointed, the
latter plump and blunt.
Established wisteria –
in summer continue to tie in the main lateral growths and cut them back when
allotted space has been covered. About
two months after flowering, cut back laterals and sideshoots to within 5 or 6
buds, or 15cm , of a main branch. In
winter cut back the laterals and sideshoots
pruned in summer to within 2 or 3 buds of their base. These will bear the coming season’s flowers.
Trees:
Cercis siliquastrum (Judas Tree) – prune and remove any
frost-damaged shoots in early summer.
Laurus nobilis (Bay) – Clip or trim shaped plants in summer.
Magnolia soulangeana – in midsummer, after light formative pruning
little other pruning is needed, unless the brittle wood suffers wind
damage. If possible remove flowers when
faded.
Sorbus spp. – remove dead wood in summer.
Sophora – prune in summer. Need little
pruning, just diseased, damaged and dead wood.
Fruit Trees:
Prunus armeniaca (Apricot) – after fruiting, cut back up to a ¼
of the fruited shoots to a new shoot.
Leave those that have made plenty of fresh growth beyond the fruited
portion, unless it spoils the shape of the tree: this growth will fruit well
next year. On older trees cut back one
or two branches or sections of branches each year to encourage new growth,
otherwise fruiting will gradually become
limited to the periphery of the tree.
Prunus avium (Sweet Cherries) - prune only
when necessary in mid-summer, shorten growth to stimulate fruiting and thin
crowded growth, occasionally remove old growth in favour of young shoots.
Prunus cerasus (Acid Cherry)– after fruiting, cut back up to a ¼ of the
fruited shoots to a new shoot. Leave
those that have made plenty of fresh growth beyond the fruited portion, unless
it spoils the shape of the tree: this growth will fruit well next year. On older trees cut back one or two branches
or sections of branches each year to encourage new growth, otherwise fruiting will gradually become limited to the
periphery of the tree.
Prunus domestica (Plum) – after fruiting, cut back up to a ¼ of
the fruited shoots to a new shoot. Leave
those that have made plenty of fresh growth beyond the fruited portion, unless
it spoils the shape of the tree: this growth will fruit well next year.
On older trees cut back one or two branches or sections of branches each
year to encourage new growth, otherwise
fruiting will gradually become limited to the periphery of the tree.
Prunus dulcis (Almond) – prune only when necessary in mid-summer.
Prunus persica (Peach) – prune annually in early summer. The aims are first to maintain a healthy,
strong, open-centred bush, then to maximize fruiting potential by removing
older wood in favour of new growth. Keep
the crown as open as possible while retaining some new growth in the centre of
the bush, so that branches bent down by crop weight can be shortened to an
upward-pointing replacement shoot.
Prunus persica var. nectarina – as for peach.
Cestrum – end of October cut shrub back to 30cm.
Lantana spp – end of autumn prune all branches by ½.
Lavatera spp – In exposed positions, shorten stems in autumn. Major pruning takes
place in spring.
Russelia equisetiformis – cut shrub back to 20 - 30cm in October.
Santolina – trim off faded flowers and long shoots annually in autumn.
Streptosolen jamesonii – cut shrub back to 30cm in autumn, protect
during winter (straw or fleece).
Roses – Climbers:
Modern Climbers (repeat
flowering) – the main aim when training climbers and ramblers against a flat
surface is to train as much growth as near horizontal as possible. If the stems were allowed to grow directly
upwards, they would only flower at the top.
For awkward spaced where horizontal training is not possible, such as a
narrow area between two windows, choose either a large shrub rose or a climbing
rose suitable for pillars. It is preferable to prune them in autumn, but they
can be pruned right up to spring.
Plant rose 45cm from
the wall. Stems should be tied to canes
and the canes to the wire to guide stems to wall.
Wall trained climber
year 1:
- Tie in new
growth to build up a framework, training shoots near horizontal along the wires
where possible.
- Remove any
dead, diseased or damaged growth.
- Tip prune
vigorous non-branching main shoots by 5-8cm to encourage branching. Make an angled cut just above a leaf or bud
Established climbers:
- Prune
flowered shoots by 2/3 of their length, making an angled cut above a healthy
shoot or bud.
- Cut out
completely any unhealthy or spindly leafless growth.
- Check new
growth to make sure it is tied in throughout the season.
- Reposition or shorten any shoots that have
grown to rub against others.
- Where an
old stem has become less productive, prune it back to a healthy shoot, tying
this in.
- Shorten
stems where they have overgrown the rose’s allotted space.
Climbers:
Jasminum officinale – prune after flowering. Lead young shoots to the support, tying
loosely at first. In subsequent years,
prune to thin out overcrowded growth, removing weak shoots and cutting flowered
shoots back to strong buds or to their bases.
Parthenocissus – prune in autumn, prune established plants to
keep them within bounds, and to shorten or remove shoots that have become
detached or are growing away from their support. Large specimens can be trimmed with shears. The suckering pads make thinning impracticable,
Trees:
Lagerstroemia – prune between autumn and early spring 1 in 3
laterals and sub-laterals back to framework
Fruit Trees:
Eriobotrya japonica – prune after harvest the branches that have
given fruit. Treat with Bouille
Bordelaise at the end of winter.
Early
Winter – Late Winter
Shrubs:
Acca sellowiana (Feijoa) – no special needs; if necessary, prune
ornamentals after flowering in summer and fruiting plants in winter.
Alyogine spp. (Blue Hibiscus) – prune shrub by
½ at the beginning of winter.
Berberis thunbergii – prune in mid to late winter by cutting out 1
in 5 of the stems each year to base or to a strong shoot low down.
Brugmansia (Datura) – Cut back to previous season’s growth to
within 15cm of ground level or to framework stems in late winter before onset
of growth.
Chimonanthus praecox (Wintersweet) – keep pruning to a minimal, after flowering.
Leonotis leonorus – in November cut shrub back to 20-30cm. Protect in winter, (straw or fleece).
Sambucus (Elder) – allow to grow unpruned for a season. Then cut down half the stems to ground level
and shorten the remainder by half.
Thereafter, shorten 1 year old wood by half and cut back older stems to
the ground.
Roses – Shrub Roses:
Wild roses and hybrids close to wild roses:
- Require very little
pruning.
- Remove dead flowers and if
necessary correct unbalanced shape. Cut
weak stems back harder than those that grow strongly.
Bourbons, China Roses and Portlands:
- Cut back
old main stems by about 1/3.
- Reduce
laterals by about 1/3 to a strong, healthy, outward facing shoot or bud.
Gallica:
- Clip over lightly Gallicas grown as hedges.
Climbers:
Mandevilla – prune in late winter or early spring, prune to thin out overcrowded
growth and remove weak shoots. Tip-prune
shoots that have filled their allotted space.
Plumbago auriculata – prune in late winter. Once established, aim to maintain the primary
branch framework, and spur-prune all laterals to within two or three buds of
their base. Remove all weak or badly
placed shoots completely, cutting back to a main framework branch.
Vitis (Vines) – prune in mid-winter before the sap begins to rise. After planting, pinch out the growing tip and
select two or three of the resulting strong shoots to form the primary
framework.
Over the next two to
three years continue tying in shoots as growth proceeds, aiming to extend the
main framework to cover the allotted space.
Once the framework is established, shorten all laterals to within two or
three buds of the main branches.
Excessive growth of lateral shoots can be trimmed back to a strong bud
during the summer.
Wisteria – prune in mid-winter, and again in summer, about two months after
flowering.
There are 2 ways of
training Wisteria over a pillar. If you
wish the plants to flower on the pillars as well as over the top, then spiral
the stems.
If you want the canopy
covered quickly then train them straight up.
Once the stems have reached the tops of the posts, spread them evenly
over the crossbeams, tying them into position.
The aim of pruning a Wisteria is to control extensive growth
and to encourage the production of lateral flowering spurs. The currant season’s shoots are cut back in
two stages to within two or three buds of their base. These will bear the coming season’s
flowers. Growth and flower buds are
easily distinguished in late winter, the former being narrow and pointed, the
latter plump and blunt.
Established Wisteria – in winter cut back the
laterals and sideshoots pruned in summer
to within 2 or 3 buds of their base.
These will bear the coming season’s flowers.
Trees:
Ailanthus altissima – roots tend to spread, prune in winter to
clear trunk, rest of the tree leave pruning to minimum.
Catalpa bignonioides – between autumn and late winter. Established trees need little pruning,
although heavy branches may need shortening or removal to balance the
framework.
Celtis australis (Australian nettle tree/Micocoulier) – prune
in winter, in general they need little pruning.
Ceratonia (Carob Tree) – prune from winter
to early spring to form a multi-stemmed tree on 60-90 cm trunk. Young tree tolerate shaping cuts if growth is
uneven and straggly; remove branch leaders and shorten sideshoots to make a
more compact, bushy crown. Mature trees
tolerate trimming to restrict their size, but do not remove too much growth in
any one year.
Melia azedarach (Indian Bean Tree) – prune from autumn to early
spring. Clearing the trunk in the early
years encourages closer branching higher on the trunk.
Sorbus – prune in winter.
Fruit trees:
Cydonia oblonga
(Quince) – as the tree matures, growth will become untidy and crowded;
vigorous shoots can be shortened to prevent congestion building up, or more
informal regulated pruning, removing some older wood, can be used to relieve
congestion and keep the centre of the bush open. Never prune too hard in any one year, or
vigours regrowth will be stimulated .
Suckers from the base or on the clear trunk should be removed.
Diospyros (Persimmon/Kaki Tree) – they often produce an abundance of twiggy
growth, if the centre of the tree becomes crowded, it may be thinned winter to
promote air circulation and to let more sunlight reach the fruits.
Malus domestica (Apple Tree) – prune in winter.
Mespilus germanica – once a strong, well-spaced branch framework
has been established, however, only minimal pruning is required thereafter,
removing a small proportion of older fruited wood in winter if growth is
overcrowded.
Morus spp. (Mulberry) – prune from early to mid winter.
Punica granatum (Pomegranate) – annual pruning is mainly
confined to shortening a small proportion of older branches to encourage the development of new shoots. Pomegranates have a strong tendency to sucker
at the base of the stem; remove as seen.
Pyrus communis (Pear Tree) – prune in winter.
Zizyphus jujuba (Jujuba Tree) – prune in winter, remove dead and
damaged wood and prune tree to the desired shape and size. Pruning for better fruiting is not necessary.
Bibliography: RHS Guide - Photo's - Web
